Chef Jaume Biarnés at Yondu Culinary Studio is exploring ways to extract deep, delicious flavors from small amounts of vegetables. Biarnés believes that century-old Korean fermented food techniques are part of the solution to feeding an ever-growing global population without depleting the planet.
“Korea has the highest vegetable consumption in the world, and that’s because they make vegetables delicious by fermenting them,” he states. “If we want people to eat more vegetables and eat more sustainably, it has to be through pleasure and fun.”
Sustainability is an Economic Imperative
For Biarnés, who previously worked at El Bulli, once named the world’s best restaurant, sustainability isn’t a trend but a fundamental part of being a chef and running a culinary operation. In an industry marked by high costs and tight profit margins, every “green” initiative must make economic sense. “Sustainability is being able to secure future resources so you can continue to operate,” Biarnés explains. “At a restaurant level, that means being economically viable. At a global level, as a species, it means the same thing.”
However, he emphasizes that even restaurants built without sustainability in mind can achieve it step-by-step. He notes that controlling food waste is already part of robust kitchen management. A more challenging struggle arises with sourcing local produce; busy chefs often lack the time to find regional suppliers, and dominant food distribution networks don’t prioritize proximity. “That’s what we need to fix, to make it easier for chefs to access local products at a more competitive price.”
Policy also plays a role. He contrasts Europe, where many single-use items are banned or restricted, with the United States, where disposable plates and cups are still common. “Policymakers should help businesses move away from single-use materials,” he stresses.
Modern Relevance of an Ancient Technique
At the Yondu Culinary Studio, where Biarnés serves as Director, the focus is on Korean vegetable fermentation, a practice that predates the refrigerator but holds striking relevance in a climate-conscious culinary era. “Fermentation is a traditional technique for preserving products,” he explains. “Pickles, sauerkraut, cheese, beer… fermentation exists all over the world. It has been used both as a method of food preservation and as a technique for creating flavor.”
By extending shelf life, fermentation reduces waste. By intensifying taste, it makes plant-forward diets more appealing, offering a dual benefit in a world where shifting to vegetables is one of the most effective dietary changes individuals can make for the planet.
Love and Sharing
Biarnés, a Catalan native now championing Korean culinary traditions in New York, embodies the cross-cultural flow that defines contemporary gastronomy. “We live in a time when ideas can travel faster than ingredients,” he observes. “It’s more likely you’ll see a recipe on TikTok or Instagram before you can find the ingredients.” “A kitchen and a table are a way of understanding each other,” he says. “There is no better way to convey your own culture and your love for your country than by sharing your own food, your own ingredients, with others.”
For those looking to implement these principles in their own kitchens, Biarnés offers a simple guide, echoing US-based author Michael Pollan: “Eat food, not too much, and mostly vegetables.”
Practical Tips for Your Kitchen:
- Buy fresh ingredients, not processed foods. Fresh ingredients tend to be more local, tastier, and have a lower carbon footprint.
- Check the origin. If a product comes from the other side of the world, it’s likely neither sustainable nor at its best flavor.
- Embrace seasonality. “Who wants to eat peaches in winter? They’re tasteless,” he says. A visit to a local farmers’ market reveals what’s ripe and ready.
- Plan to avoid waste. Know what you’re going to cook before you shop, buy only what you need for the next few days, and utilize your freezer for meal prep.
Above all, Biarnés advises enjoying the process. “The most important thing is the pleasure factor,” he says. “Vegetables are good because they give you pleasure. The vitamins and fiber come later.”
Sustainable Gastronomy Day is celebrated annually on June 18 to recognize gastronomy as a cultural expression related to the natural and cultural diversity of the world.
